Los Templarios to Sahagun Distance 13.7 km (8.5 mi / 10.8) to go 368.9km

Last night's stay at Los Templarios was not too bad. The top bunk ended up being okay because it had both a ladder and a railing around it. The railing doubled as a clothes line, which came in handy because of the previous day's weather.

While staying the night in the monastery room in Carrion I had carefully washed some of my clothes in the sink. I found a singular hanger in a closet and hung multiple socks over it to dry above the hot water radiator. Next to the hanger was a shirt I had washed. By morning, for some reason, none of these items were completely dry (yes, the radiator was warm). I, in my infinite wisdom (infantile wisdom? Funny how those two are so similar) decided to put the damp clothes in the plastic bag I carried in my pack to keep them separate from the dry clothes. Because of the rain we endured all day, everything in my pack was soaked, except the still somewhat damp clothes in the bag! I may rethink this in the future.

My bunk was situated in a room with four other bunk beds. Ten people of mixed nationalities, mixed language, mixed gender, with one common bath/shower/toilet area. The toilets were in individual stalls, behind lockable doors. The showers however were isolated from the sink/mirror area only by a singular shower curtain; one that was about four inches narrower than the opening they were designed to cover. I noticed that everyone had the same aversion to showering as I last night.

The door leading into the bathroom opened against my bunk. The singular door leading to the hallway opened at the foot of my bunk. With walls on two remaining sides I had about half the length of the bed that was assessable to me and the young man below me. With his items strewn about on the floor I had little choice but to unpack my items onto my bed and set them on top of my pack, which also occupied my bed. It made for tight sleeping quarters. 

As has been the case often, one person chose to set an alarm for the morning, and virtually all responded to it. Fortunately, the dining area opened for breakfast at 6, so while others packed for departure I ate breakfast.

The symbol of the Knights Templor

On the road by seven, my miles (and related km) passed slowly, my hip causing me to shorten my stride. The weather was much better today and the plan I had hatched seemed to touch all bases. I had been moving quickly and my body was telling me to take a break. The combination of good Wifi and a private setting had not arisen recently and my heart ached for a meaningful visit with the captain of my cheerleading squad. Plus, this is a meaningful Holiday weekend with a personal record on the line.

I have listened to, watched on tape delay, watched on live TV or watched in person, the last 61 Indianapolis 500s. I certainly have an excuse for missing this one but (my plan says...) if I walk just 10 miles or so today, find a hotel to rest in that has Wifi and privacy, with a TV to boot, that would be just ducky. At a perfect distance sat the town of Sahagun, smack dab in the middle of the Camino de Santiago! I had allowed for 24 days to make it this far and had reached this point in 18 days. It all made sense and I allowed myself to accept a lesser pace for the day, with time off for good behavior!

As I neared Sahagun the trail, which had been following highway N-120, suddenly veered left, leaving the highway. It didn't seem to make sense until I cleared a long row of trees and saw that I was headed to Sahagun, and it was actually the highway that out skirted the city.

Having thought I knew what to expect I was then surprised again when, with the city clearly just ahead, the trail veered to the right, crossing the road. There was what appeared to be a very, very old stone map that showed this was correct, the trail took only a brief sidetrack, then turned again toward the city.

I did not find out until later that this was so as to place the pilgrim on an ancient path, across an ancient and beautiful bridge, past a twelfth century sanctuary and between two large figures. As I was to find out, this is the exact mid-point along the Romanesque road that was the original Camino.

I soon found myself entering Sahagun and, soon after that, I found myself lost.

I did two large circles through the city, foregoing the large hotel on the east side of town in favor of a stay on the west side where I would be exiting. 

When I finely worked my way across town and found someone who spoke any English whatsoever I asked for "hotel.", to which he responded with a single finger accompanied by the word "solo", then jesturing to the east, "1 kilometer". So I walked all the way back across town.

I did run into "the kids", the group of peregrinos from day 1 who have been hanging together as they go (although they were short Pauline and J.J. today).

Backtracking was also an excellent way to find out that all of the markings, arrows and signs for the Camino are set to be seen only while heading west. I ended up on the wrong side of the tracks, literally. By the time I backtracked yet again I was fully ready to stop. 

I got a room at the very end of a very long, very noisy hallway (the hallway is somewhat narrow and the floor causes my shoes to squeak mercilessly, a sound that echoes to no end).

The view is great if you look straight out, less desirable if you look down. 

It has privacy, Wifi and TV, but no two in the same space. So I streamed the race in the cafeteria, talked to my wife in the lounge area and took a nap in my room! Any port in a storm.

So now I need to publish this, get some sleep, then hit the road tomorrow knowing I'm another day past half way home.

Keep your elbow bent my love, I'll be home soon.