There was nowhere to eat in CdM, so I kept on hoof in' it to Villaval where I found signs proclaiming the intention to feed the Peregrinos, but it appeared no one was open yet, despite it being nearly 8 o'clock. So I continued on my way to Gardenuela. Having now hiked 5.3 km I was ready to eat. On the west side of this small Spanish village I found a bar with a tent set up to protect those beneath. And those beneath turned out to be friends since day 1: There was J.J. from the U.K., Pauline from Lubec, Germany, her recent travel companion Carlo from Holland, Sarah from Amsterdam and Carlos from the state of Washington. More about this later.
From left, CW around the table: Carlo, Sarah, J.J, Pauline and Carlos
It wasn't much farther when I came to a ridge that afforded a first view of Burgos and the surrounding area. There was a sign at the top of the ridge that read:
From here I thought I was almost there. I paused briefly to catch the tail end of a map discussion between a French Lady and an Irish lady. As we looked on, two guys blew by us in the direction "we" had agreed was the way to go. They walked about half a block, to the top of a rise where the exit from an apartment complex met the road. As they confidently started down the road a car flew up to the stop sign, honked and waved at the men, then pointed frantically in a gesture that said, "Over the edge, you need to be walking on the dirt path just over the edge!"
I and the Irish lady, (Patricia from Dublin) made an immediate correction so no one knew we were about to make the same wrong turn.
I then "walked" with Patricia for about an hour. It was like walking with Bev, feet and legs going like mad to keep pace with a woman on a mission! She said she was doing her second portion of the Camino with her husband. When I asked where he was she said, "Way back there somewhere. He walks too slow." She said she was living in Dublin but hailed from Galway. When asked how she ended up in Dublin she said, "I went to the University and I think I stayed!" They were catching a bus this afternoon to Madrid to fly home. They'll be back in September to do another piece of the trail.
By the time we walked around a large airport and reached the highway at Castanares, I was ready for a break.
Shortly thereafter I crossed the rio Arianzon into Castanares. Thinking I was almost in Burgos, I was quite surprised by how long it took to walk along the river, through a delightful park, and into town. Occasionally I had to walk under other bridges, some barely tall enough for gringos.
Along the way I saw a reminder to those city folk that use the park that they are in the great outdoors.
A short distance (4.4 km ) further I saw a sign that reminded the peregrinos that we were now in the city.
I walked along the sparsely posted route through the city. I had two hotels in mind (one the sister location to my date with luxury in Pamplona, the other recommended by Patricia this morning, where they had stayed last year).
I had not had lunch yet and was very tempted by a Dominos, but continued on my way until I found the Norte y Londrary, or something close to that (the hotel Patricia had recommended, just up the street from the cathedral). It was not yet noon and check in time wasn't until 1:00 p.m. But rather than take my reservation for an hour later they checked me directly in to room 205 (which, if we learned our earlier lesson, is on the third floor).
After unpacking a number of items I decided to take a shower. This is an older building with nicely redecorated rooms. The shower set up was the now-familiar chrome tower"
I hopped in, dutifully adjusted the temperature, then turned on the shower head with full pressure. Unbeknownst to me, the little horizontal pivot piece that holds the shower head in position was not tight and the pressure of the water caused the head to pivot back and to the side, sending a huge stream of water up and over the shower curtain and into the main area of the bathroom. I reacted as fast as I could, temporarily regaining control of the water jet. My design engineer's mind went instantly to work. I figured that if I wound the flexible hose around the pivot piece the weight of the hose would hold the shower head in its appropriate position. And it did... momentarily. As soon as I thought I had succeeded and turned my back, the shower head tilted back and, this time, to the opposite side, sending a torrent of water to the wall and directly beyond the shower curtain which was resting only inches away..
Again I reacted as quickly as an unsuspecting design engineer could. When I finally finished my shower I threw open the curtain and saw the saturated floor mat sitting in the middle of a small lake. Because the floors are old wooden floors, they are no longer level so much of the water had pooled alongside the tub and, in the opposite direction, where the floor ran under the door and into the main room. Sorry 'bout that!
This afternoon I walked up past the history museum to a bank to get more Euros, as most of the small establishments take only cash. Again, unbeknownst to me, banks close at 2 p.m. in Spain and it was 1:59! Luckily another nearby bank had better hours and I was able to get the needed bills.
I then headed down to the Catedral de Santa Maria. This 13th century cathedral is the second largest in all of Spain!
My dinner tonight was rather special but I will write more about that, also later.
Until then, keep your left elbow bent my dearest, I am 1/3 of the way home!








"no step on Snek" is what that sign above seems to say. I didn't know that you had to worry about sneks on the Camino!
ReplyDeleteInteresting to learn you are so very shower challenged! Hmmm...guess housekeeping will not have to wash the floor (or the ceiling or the walls)! Another beautiful cathedral. ..love the architecture. Oh by the way, you look dashing in that hat!
ReplyDeleteThe church is huge. What’s the population? Anxiously waiting to hear about what you ate for dinner. Something exotic like vegetables? Love you Frog with elbow assuming the position as always.
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