Villadangos del Paramo to Astorga. Distance 28.5 km (17.7 mi / 19.6) togo 262 km

The day didn't start early enough, or rather I didn't start early enough. I had set the alarm for 6:30, the hotel owner had asked "us" not to leave before 7 because we had to unlock the front door and put the key in a cubby hole, meaning we had no way to relock the door behind us. Turned out not to be an issue anyway. I was moving so slowly this morning that I didn't start manufacturing footprints until almost 7:30. Yet I was still the first one out the door!

Once on the way it didn't take long to clear the edge of town. The trail today was a tale of contrasts, a little of something for everyone. Whereas yesterday was mostly walking on pavement next to noisy roads, we quickly disappeared into a green tunnel today.

The property on the left of this lane was apparently owned by a former Boy Scout, judging from the lashings used to assemble his gate.

It was cool this morning (49F / 9.5C) and it managed to stay cool, with the consistently overcast sky allowing a temperature increase of only 4F. The miles melted away, often under cover of trees or foliage, but just behind the green cloak was the noise of a highway, which periodically became visible, and often was audible.

As has been my tendency, I walked a couple of miles before looking for a place to enjoy a breakfast. I picked a bar in San Martin del Camino this morning but they weren't ready. I was able to get my coffee Americana, but they had no food yet. While sitting outside I struck up a conversation with a young lady from Ireland, who was soon joined by her mother and a cousin. 

They have been traveling the Camino for ten years now. The three of them walk for two weeks every other year. They had started ten years ago hiking from Astorga to Santiago de Compostela. Their Camino was to end this very afternoon as they hike into Astorga to close the remaining gap. They ended up taking a rosary back to Ireland with them.

After a walk of another 4 miles I was REALLY ready for breakfast as I approached Puente de Orbigo. On the outskirts of town I spotted this photo op:

Yes, it's an interesting tower, but look closer.

Alicia and I love spotting "wise" couples who still hold hands as they walk; a reminder to us that love does not recognize age. This couple was more than pleased, and even excited, to pose for a picture when I explained to them why I thought they were so special.

They are from south east Spain and are walking the Camino "because they can"! They spoke little English, but it was enough for me to determine they are a wonderful couple. 

We walked only a short distance before we reached Puente de Orbigo, an ancient bridge (13th century) built over an even ancienter bridge (sure it's a word) built by the Romans.

The view of one of the longest medieval bridges in Spain, with the immense open arena across the way, was obviously something special, but what?

The couple asked if I wanted my picture taken, then she wanted hers taken with me. He then commenced to explain that this was the site of annual jousting events.

The banners sport the Cross of St. John, known as the Maltese Cross. The annual event is a commemoration of an event that occurred here in 1434. The bridge is called Paso Honroso, the passage of honor. This description is from the guide book:

"A noble knight from Leon, Don Suero de Quinones, scorned by a beautiful lady, threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass as he undertook to defend the bridge (and presumably his honor) against all comers. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge. Don Suero successfully defended the bridge for a month until the required 300 lances had been broken. Together with his trusted comrades he then proceeded to Santiago to offer thanks for his freedom from the bonds of love and for his honor, now restored."

Immediately on the other (far) side of the bridge is the town of Hospital de Orbigo. Wonder why the Knights of the Order of St. John decided to maintain a hospital here? I had every intention of stopping for breakfast but had a strange occurrence as I reached the end of the bridge.

A car pulled over to the edge of the road leading to the bridge and, as I walked by, the driver hopped out and started walking with me and rattling off sentences in Spanish.

"No habla Espanol" I said. It didn't even slow him down. He mentioned the word "seis" and when I didn't acknowledge he excitedly stuck his hands in my face and counted off, "uno, dos, tres..." until his thumb ended up being seis. He then gestured that he (presumably) was walking, mentioned Santiago, then said "Domingo" (Sunday).

We are about 170 miles from Santiago, and even if he averaged 28+ miles a day for six days, it still won't be Sunday!

I spotted the restaurant and was about to stop when he darted around me and entered himself. Seeing  my escape, I quickly continued down Main Street.

Strange men not withstanding, it appeared to be a very festive town.

It wasn't until Villares de Orbigo that I finally found a place to eat. Unfortunately, the door to El Banos did not close (forget about locking, it didn't close) so I left town with unfinished business. But not until I talked to this guy from Australia:

I thanked him for taking his shoes and socks off at a restaurant, explaining that I now knew I wasn't the only one!

Not too far above town I decided to take a selfie:

I don't want to brag, but I think I'm losing weight!

The road widened considerably and, up on this plateau, was free and clear of the highway noises.

There have been uncounted spots along the Way where spontaneous displays of self expression have been spotted. They quite often contain figures, or just stacks, of rock, some with messages written on them, others simply left to acknowledge the display has been seen and appreciated.

Wouldn't the world be a better place if we could learn to write a name or idea on a rock and, by placing it in a special area, we remove that burden from our lives?

After a very long morning we came to the edge of the plateau and took pictures at a cross, with Astorga in the background,  

 

We then descended a steep hill, only to find out it was San Justo de La Vega. The good news was that we needed only cross Rio Tuerto (I thought briefly that this might translate to Turtle Creek, where I spent much of my early childhood catching crayfish).

Once over the river, and up and over the railroad tracks, we climbed steeply to the Convento St. Fransisco:

... then walked into the Plaza San Bartolome where they not only have an old building erected during the era of St. Francis of Assisi, but, under protection of glass and beneath metal walkway, you can view mosaic sidewalks (floors?) that date to the 2nd century, during the time of the Roman Empire!

There was a nearby Museo Romano, but I never loved Raymond anyway, so I skipped it and proceeded to the Plaza Mayor, which sits in front of a 17th century Ayuntamiento (town hall) like no town hall you've ever seen before.

I tried twice in fifteen minutes to film the two mechanical figures striking the bell, and messed up both times! So I tried to zoom in for a still:

By this time my feet hurt and my focus was on finding a hotel that my bride had booked me into. I had a name, I had an address, but Google Maps had taken the day off!
I stopped at the Turisimo Office and asked the people who did not speak English, who showed me how to follow the Camino to the edge of the map, then ask someone there! (No kidding!)

So I wandered. I have a shirt that was given to me years ago that says, " Not all who wander are lost". Unfortunately for me, some of us are lost!

I stopped at a restaurant and asked the man behind the bar, "Habla Ingles?" to which he responded "no, habla Espanol?". This was not going well.

 I showed him the name and address of the hotel and he looked like he might be able to help. He grabbed a piece of paper, a pen and drew this map, without a single word spoken.

I walked right to the front door! A picture is worth more than a thousand words in Spanish! Must have something to do with the exchange rate!

The front door was locked and the sign said, "Completo". Now what?

This is known in the trade as a cliff hangar. I'm tired, I'm going to sleep, the only thing I know for sure is that I love my wife and kids.

Continued manana!

Am I the only one...

I often wonder why certain devices exist. My catch phrase for these items is:

Just because we can do it doesn't mean we should do it!

Let me give you a few examples:

Apparently the need to reduce electrical consumption is a driving force in Spain. I have never seen motion sensors and timers used so extensively. But some of these applications need to be rethought.

The hotel I'm in has a very long internal hallway. There is no light source at the far end of this hallway where my room is located, and only a single switch, fitted with a timer, controlling the light on the elevator end of the hall. When the elevator door opens you step into a pitch black hallway. If you were paying attention while the elevator door was open, you would know that the light switch is on the wall opposite the elevator. But once the door closes there is no way to find the light switch. You are standing in a dark hallway, in all likelihood with no knowledge of the presence of anyone else who might be lurking in the dark.

Let's say you're lucky and you turn the light on. It controls only the light in front of the elevator. A small bend in the hallway still leaves the remainder of the hallway dark. There is another switch around the corner, in the dark, but you must find it before the first light times out and turns off.

Again, let's say you've been here before and you find the second switch. A light turns on at one end of the hall and you race down the hall, knowing that it too will time out. You have only a finite amount of time to locate your room, locate your key and unlock the door before the light turns off. If you are not fast enough you have to walk back down the now dark hallway and toggle the switch; off, then back on.

Even if you make it to your room, find the key, get it in the lock and open your door, you are still not home free. When it comes time to exit your room you have no choice but to walk down a long, dark hallway to reach the elevator. The switch is at the far end of the hallway!

Too abstract? Let's take a look at a more practical application: the bathroom.

Many, if not most, of the bathrooms I've seen are equipped with a motion sensor that turns the lights on when you enter the room and, when no motion is detected, turns them off again. Sounds great! Now think it through a little further. 

Ladies, you enter the outer room and the lights turn on. You see an empty stall so you take it. You no sooner are seated and the lights go out. What do you do? Wave your hand over your head? The sensor is in the outer room. You are stuck! You must complete "your business", complete the process by finding paper in the dark, pull yourself together, then exit the stall. Maybe this is a good reason why women never go to the bathroom alone? Who knew they've been practicing all their lives!

Now think about the guys. Women have been complaining since before the advent of social media that men "can't hit a target" in the bathroom. How do you think the aim will improve while "aiming" in the dark? Or while waving one hand over your head?

Think about it - what devices have been placed in your every day path that never should have cleared the patent process?

Leon to Villadangos del Paramo. Distance 21.3 km (13.2 mi / 13.6 ) togo 290.5 km

Today's walk was more work than enjoyment. At least for me.

I walked over 5 miles today before Frederico (my walking stick) found dirt. The walk out of Leon was a combination of concrete, tile and pavement. When, just west of La Virgen del Camino, the path finally changed to slimy, muddy dirt (which is still easier on the feet than concrete) it was still alongside a major highway. This meant that we listened to traffic all day; no solitude to soothe the soul.

That's not to say there was nothing to see on the way out of Leon. De lo contrario!

I started out walking a few blocks north of the hotel to take a picture of the Bascilica de San Isidoro which includes the Museo Panteon:

From there I walked west to a huge building that formed one side of the Plaza San Marcos. In the huge square was a statue named El Peregrino

Believe me when I say I feel his pain!

A short distance later I walked across the Puenta rio Bernesga, a 16th century stone bridge.

I was now officially out of Leon, and in the burbs. One of the first towns was Cruce which is, I believe, where I found this:

Amazing that I come half way around the world and see a reference to my late wife!

Alicia has agreed to spend time trying to stay a day or two ahead of me, making reservations. The guide book states that the further west we go the more pilgrims will join us and nightly reservations will become more important. Her first night was tonight, so after checking in I contacted her to let her know that I found the place and had a place to stay. She asked, "Is it nice?", so I replied, It's okay".

Then I sent her this picture with the explanation that "... we had no way of knowing that this town is in the middle of a civil war. Most buildings have been destroyed but this one looks stable."

Poor girl had no idea what she was getting into!

A couple bonus pictures, then a bonus story from about a week (?) ago.

It says fuente, but I ain't drinking it!

I can't find a translation, but a German couple came along and got the biggest kick out of this. Lisa, any enlightenment?

I had not had time to relay this story before so here goes:

Several days ago I stayed at an albergue named San Bol. We had a large round table at which dinner was served. Around the table were:

Diane, from Northern Ireland by way of Great Britain (dual citizenship)

Marie from Australia

Erin from Virginia

A German man

Two French men

A couple from France (him) and Arizona (her) who had been living in Czechoslovakia (I believe).

(and me)

In the course of conversation I mentioned to those who understood English that I had hiked with a man who had three emergency brain surgeries, then, during recovery, was given a number of movies to watch, one of which was "The Way". He was so inspired by it that he watched several times and used his desire to hike the Camino as his motivation to get him through rehab. He credits the movie, and the Camino, with saving his life.

Everyone who understood was moved by the story and indicated, through words or gestures, how wonderful the story was.

Those who didn't understand a word of it sat puzzled until the German man, knowing that the woman from Arizona spoke German, asked her to repeat the story. 

So, in German now, the woman launches into a long, wonderful version of the story, after which the German, touched by the emotions with which the story was told, wells up with tears and touches his heart, indicating that he was moved also.

Apparently there were puzzled looks on the faces of the two Frenchmen, because Marie then said, "and now, the French translation?".

So the woman's partner now tells the story yet again, in elaborate detail and flowing gestures, after which the two Frenchmen indicate that they too, were moved.

Followed by a round of laughter.

Speaking of being moved, keep your elbow bent my sweet Alicia. It is thoughts of you that move me, every day!

Reliegos to Leon Distance 24.3 km (15 mi / 16.4 ) to go 311.8 km

Last night I ate dinner with a middle age Frenchman (40?) who spoke very little English. I believe he said his reason for hiking the Camino was either that his wife had left him and taken the kids, or he lost his job (funny how the two sound so similar when you don't speak the language).

Other possibilities: His truck broke down, his dog died or he's writing a country and western hit song!

We ended up in the same small room, along with four others (two couples?) from Austria who apparently were traveling together. I say apparently because everyone "slept in" until 7:00 this morning, at which point the one man opened the blinds, drowning the room with light, and began downloading a dozen e-mails, each of which emitted an annoying noise from his cell phone, all while he was in the bathroom.

I am nearly across the Meseta (the plateau) as I work on reaching Leon. They say that the Meseta is good for introspection. They also say it can play tricks on your mind! I don't know if I believe that.

As I walked this morning it occurred to me that my pace had slowed substantially. It may have been because I walked 20 miles yesterday. That in turn may have contributed to the sore hip. As I hobbled along I found myself thinking about this. I really didn't think it out of the ordinary when a "perky" young lady bounced passed me. But I did take note when a 60ish French lady with a cane passed me, then a gray haired man with a red tipped cane, who made matters worse by slapping me on the ankle as he swept side to side as he passed me. A short time later a Spanish woman with a walker, and an elderly man on crutches. But what really drove the point home was when the Frenchman, who had walked 42 km yesterday, passed me, still in bed, with the proprietor of the albergue pushing the bed, uphill!

The province of Leon has really gone out of their way to make the pilgrims "way" easier. Take for example this new bridge which has a designated lane for Peregrinos!

It is even sectioned off to keep us safe

A little further down the road was a construction zone featuring safety signs for foot traffic

and in Puenta Villarente, this nice new bridge to assist peregrinos across the river, contrasting with the ancient Puenta Ingente that is still used by cars and trucks.

It was somewhere just west of town that it happened. The cars were speeding by at a high rate of speed on a somewhat elevated level, relative to the walking path (my eyes are at about the level of the headlights). The road was wet and cars, as I've seen them do repeatedly, were traveling in complete defiance of any proposed speed limit. 

As each car passed it emitted a familiar song; tires slurping on wet pavement. But as one car approached I detected a different sound. It was hydroplaning and, as it neared me, it began to spin to the left, then predictably was jerked back, too far, to the right. He was now out of control and heading directly at me. Everything from that point seemed to happen in slow motion, as if I was day dreaming. The nose of the car came over the embankment pointed directly at me. There was no time to run, even if my legs could have managed to move quickly. All I could think of was don't get hit standing on the ground. So I jumped, turning my back toward the vehicle, hoping that the pack would compress against the car and launch me into the air.

"Buen Camino" said the man as he inched past me while I stood day dreaming in the middle of the path. Hey, maybe the Meseta does play tricks with your mind.

An aside:

 just had another "why do these things happen" moment. Earlier today I walked past El Casa Blanca, a restaurante along The Way. Nothing unusual about that; I'm in Spain and there has to be dozens of businesses or residences that are named Casa Blanca, or "White House". Just now I received a phone call from Boise, Idaho. My cell phone was my business phone up until a year ago when I retired, but still, maybe once a month, a customer (obviously not a frequent customer) will call the number they have on record - my cell phone! This call was from an apartment complex in Boise whose pumps I had faithfully kept running for over twenty years. They are the Casa Blanca Apartments!

Now back to our regularly scheduled blog.

The trail climbed considerably most of the morning until, shortly after noon, I was standing atop a hill, looking down on the metropolis of Leon. 

Between us was a very steep, sloppy, muddy hill that would take a lot of time and concentration to descend.

By the time I reached the bottom I had grown several inches and added several pounds, all in the form of brown mud, persistent enough to still have a presence on my sole after a mile and a half of city sidewalks.

My lovely wife, serving as Travel Agent Supreme, had booked a hotel room for me in advance, a technique that will come in handy as we approach the home stretch. I found, checked into, and was enjoying the view from my window when a familiar figure wandered below. It was Carlo, from "El grupo de Los Amigos de dai uno". I yelled to get his attention and we made arrangements to get together for dinner. He is staying with J.J. who has been fighting major blisters but is ready to hit the road tomorrow.

So the three of us met at a very nice local eatery and conversed. It was my first extended conversation with the 19 year old Carlo, for whom the Camino is only Act One of a two to three year trip around the world! Interesting and very nice young man.

Bonus material:

I believe this was a school playground!

Unique?!

Pretty

As I walked by a Frenchman pointed out to me, in a very strong accent, "Lion, King of the jungle". I stopped to take a selfie and a very nice and patient passer-by insisted he take the photo. He kept hitting the video button, instead of touching the screen "anywhere". He felt he knew what icon to touch, so I have three videos of me saying, "anywhere" and, finally, the money shot!

My lunch today was pieces of ham in a large plate full of peas! Yummy! Finally, a good meal!

Here's another of them fancy bathroom showers to figure out. Can you determine what all these things are for?

Two old farts on a park bench

An art museum which is a work of art!

Speaking of art:

Sahagun to Reliegos Distance 32.8 km (20.3 mi / 19.9) to go 336.1 km

Today was pretty simple. Get up, walk, walk some more.

Exactly the kind of day I had expected to encounter on the Meseta!

Yesterday worked out well. I had planned to walk about 10 miles, talk to my wife, watch the Indy 500 and get some rest. Check, check, check and check! I also had a brief Video Chat with my daughter Lisa who, with Jimmy, went to dinner with Alicia (and they threw in a tour of Chicago architecture)!

So when the alarm went off (I thought when I retired I wouldn't have to deal with those anymore) I woke up, packed and squeeked my way down the hall to the "lift", then went straight to the cafeteria for desayuna (breakfast). Apparently they were still trying to finalize the schedule: front desk said 7 a.m., kitchen staff said 7:30. They did allow me a double Cafe Americana longo, which still looks to me like a half full cup of coffee!

I grabbed a banana, downed the coffee and an orange juice, and was on the road by 7:30.

After retracing many of my steps from yesterday I reached the bridge at the edge of town.

The first week, coming out of the Pyrenees, we had been treated to fields of poppies. They either had become less frequent or I had become immune to their beauty. But today, Memorial Day "back home", I was treated to numerous displays of the flower that is synonymous with Veterans who sacrifice of their life in service to their country.

Today we marched on and on under threatening skies, but had only about ten minutes of light precipitation this a.m.

Most of the time today was spent following rows of trees alongside a highway.

I reached the first small town at a distance upward of 10 miles around noon. A decision had to be made. There was a large section of the map that showed nothing as far as towns or services available. Once I headed down the road I was committed to a long walk and, in this case, I opted for a long afternoon that covered an additional 13 km.

A short distance outside of El Burgo Ranero I caught up with a man that looked like the "most interesting man in the world" from the beer commercials. His name was Alex (or maybe Alej, as it was short for Alejandro) and he was from Madrid. He had two daughters attending college near Seattle and was therefore familiar with the Pacific Northwest. He was hiking the Camino in sections because he could only get two weeks at a time off from work. His goal for this outing was Leon, which is now my goal for tomorrow. I have succeeded in cutting almost two days off of the time I thought I would require to cross the Meseta.

I have had several people urge me to begin making reservations ahead of time as I move west. The closer to Santiago de Compostela I get, the more pilgrims will be encountered. My wife, the queen of on-line shopping, will be assisting me. With Leon being a large city, we may wish to start tomorrow!

Bonus pictures:

Ok, who can identify this beauty?

Something strange in this picture

Saw this on a showroom floor in Sahagun. I think my Dad sold this originally!

My current location

Keep your left elbow bent my dear Gracie. We're getting closer by the day!