Wednesday, May 30, 2018

Leon to Villadangos del Paramo. Distance 21.3 km (13.2 mi / 13.6 ) togo 290.5 km

Today's walk was more work than enjoyment. At least for me.
I walked over 5 miles today before Frederico (my walking stick) found dirt. The walk out of Leon was a combination of concrete, tile and pavement. When, just west of La Virgen del Camino, the path finally changed to slimy, muddy dirt (which is still easier on the feet than concrete) it was still alongside a major highway. This meant that we listened to traffic all day; no solitude to soothe the soul.
That's not to say there was nothing to see on the way out of Leon. De lo contrario!
I started out walking a few blocks north of the hotel to take a picture of the Bascilica de San Isidoro which includes the Museo Panteon:

From there I walked west to a huge building that formed one side of the Plaza San Marcos. In the huge square was a statue named El Peregrino
Believe me when I say I feel his pain!

A short distance later I walked across the Puenta rio Bernesga, a 16th century stone bridge.

I was now officially out of Leon, and in the burbs. One of the first towns was Cruce which is, I believe, where I found this:
Amazing that I come half way around the world and see a reference to my late wife!

Alicia has agreed to spend time trying to stay a day or two ahead of me, making reservations. The guide book states that the further west we go the more pilgrims will join us and nightly reservations will become more important. Her first night was tonight, so after checking in I contacted her to let her know that I found the place and had a place to stay. She asked, "Is it nice?", so I replied, It's okay".
Then I sent her this picture with the explanation that "... we had no way of knowing that this town is in the middle of a civil war. Most buildings have been destroyed but this one looks stable."
Poor girl had no idea what she was getting into!

A couple bonus pictures, then a bonus story from about a week (?) ago.
It says fuente, but I ain't drinking it!

I can't find a translation, but a German couple came along and got the biggest kick out of this. Lisa, any enlightenment?

I had not had time to relay this story before so here goes:
Several days ago I stayed at an albergue named San Bol. We had a large round table at which dinner was served. Around the table were:
Diane, from Northern Ireland by way of Great Britain (dual citizenship)
Marie from Australia
Erin from Virginia
A German man
Two French men
A couple from France (him) and Arizona (her) who had been living in Czechoslovakia (I believe).
(and me)

In the course of conversation I mentioned to those who understood English that I had hiked with a man who had three emergency brain surgeries, then, during recovery, was given a number of movies to watch, one of which was "The Way". He was so inspired by it that he watched several times and used his desire to hike the Camino as his motivation to get him through rehab. He credits the movie, and the Camino, with saving his life.
Everyone who understood was moved by the story and indicated, through words or gestures, how wonderful the story was.
Those who didn't understand a word of it sat puzzled until the German man, knowing that the woman from Arizona spoke German, asked her to repeat the story. 
So, in German now, the woman launches into a long, wonderful version of the story, after which the German, touched by the emotions with which the story was told, wells up with tears and touches his heart, indicating that he was moved also.
Apparently there were puzzled looks on the faces of the two Frenchmen, because Marie then said, "and now, the French translation?".
So the woman's partner now tells the story yet again, in elaborate detail and flowing gestures, after which the two Frenchmen indicate that they too, were moved.
Followed by a round of laughter.

Speaking of being moved, keep your elbow bent my sweet Alicia. It is thoughts of you that move me, every day!









2 comments:

  1. The man of the peregrinos statue could be a bronze version of you...beard and all!!! Love the story of the story.

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  2. Nope, means nothing to me... sorry. I would love to walk the Camino for the language experience alone!

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