Speaking of rain, we have been hiking through the Rioja wine region. I'm told they have an excellent reputation around the world among officianatos. I wouldn't know. I can tell the difference between red and white blindfolded! That's where I draw the line. I have seen though that the soil (the cynic in me wants to call it dirt) has changed from a very light brown to a heavier red color. This I am guessing means a higher clay content. I've also observed that the rows of grapes are planted up and over hills instead of contouring. This may also be because the clay makes it much less likely to experience erosion during run off. But, like I said, I don't have any idea what I'm talking about!
The sleeping experience last night turned out to be less than ideal but not, as thought, because it was cold. I asked, and was able to procure a blanket.
The problem was that of design. When the space was modified to convert to an albergue they placed a partition between the sleeping area and the bathroom/sink/shower area. That partition however went only about two thirds of the way to the ceiling. So all night, as different Peregrinos got up to use the facilities, the motion sensor turned all the lights on in the bathroom area but lit the entire sleeping quarters also. To make matters worse, all the noises being emitted from said bathroom were broadcast throughout. This morning, it was somewhat unusual to see everyone up and about by 6:15!
The early start lent itself to observing a great sunrise!
The trail today was more of the same, only the characters rotate in and out. I walked for over an hour with Stephan (sp?) from Hamburg. He gave me the inside scoop on some grand adventures in the Alps (I'm taking notes Alicia) and I talked to him about his trip to the U.S. with his girlfriend in October. They plan to fly to N.Y.C. for two days, then to Phoenix, from which they plan to drive to Yosemite. We talked about going through Grand Canyon land, then (very) quickly through Vegas on the way to California. A most pleasant man with a pace that very nearly matched mine, uphill and down.
Again I bid him adieu when I made a stop to rest. He was headed to Granon tonight and wanted to keep moving.
The spot I chose to stop had two tables set up, just outside the town. One table had fruit (drinks were in an ice chest on the ground). The other table had row after row of trinkets set out on display. There was a box that showed the food was by donation. I picked a banana and a coke and, as I fumbled for a donation, I lost control of my walking stick, dropping it on the souvenir table and scattering trinkets everywhere. The vendor calmly walked around and picked up my stick, placing it across the ice chests, then began to pick up and straighten row after row of doodads. Oops!
I hit the trail again after lunch and quickly came upon two figures standing in the road.
"It's Frog!" was the greeting. It was Tanner from Moscow and he was walking with a cute young lady from Korea. Her name was not easily pronounced so she had reduced it to Soy Bean!
The introductions done, we started to walk. Soy Bean said she had "heard all about me". Don't know if it was good or bad, but...
Tanner and I walked and talked for over an hour, with Soy Bean choosing to fall back. He is a young man of 22 with an Associates degree and no idea what he wants to do with his life. He got a job at a start-up company and has a boss who had an identical experience after studies. His boss paid for his passport and told him to go travel to find the purpose he lacked. I gave him whatever words of encouragement I could, maybe doing more harm than good?
We reached town (Santo Dominigo) and found one of the main albergues, this one looks to be very nice. No need to have an alarm set, there is a small barn full of very vocal roosters right outside the window!
We are right down the street (Calle) from the Cathedral and they have an 8:00 evening service tonight.
One of the side alters
They say that the first one third of the Camino is for the body, the second third for the mind, and the final third for the spirit. In the next couple of days I will transition to the Meseta (plateau) that marks the beginning of the second third of the Camino. It is hard to believe that I have walked over 120 miles in 9 days. Like life, it goes so slowly time flies by!
A couple of pictures from today:
First golf course seen!
Many "Fuentes" along the way provide potable water for Peregrinos.
Only another 6 km to town!
This church bell tower reminded me of the movie Kelly's Heroes. Or any other WWII movie.
My bunk (bottom left) next to a unique window (unique yet common, if that's possible). There is a small handle that turns and allows the shutter to open but keeps the window shut, to let in light. A larger handle, when in the up position, allows the window to slant open, hinged at the bottom. When turned 90 degrees, it opens, hinged at the side as in the picture. Another 90 degree twist of the handle allows the window to open, hinged at the top! Clever!
I may have unwittingly uncovered a cultural difference with the Korean girls in my "suite". Although not visible in the picture, there is a chair behind the bed, to the left of the window. I was sitting in the chair when one of the girls, obviously very tired and not bending well, came and lowered herself onto the floor next to where I was sitting. I, being the chivalrous gentleman that I am, asked her if she would be more comfortable on the chair. She sheepishly admitted that she would. I stood up, not only offering her the chair but my hand to help her up, which she utilized.
I moved to sit on my bed and she turned around, lifted her pack onto the chair, and left it there! It is still there now!
Speaking of bending, bend your left elbow my dear Alicia and know that I am there.





My jaw is on the floor at the picture above with the Camino stretching into the distance over the green, rolling hills. I think it may be calling me...
ReplyDeleteAgain, such beautiful country although I must admit, the picture of the road looked like it was very long and overwhelming. Now then, had I walked into the vinyard areas....not so sure I would want to come back out. That is if they let you sample the goods !
ReplyDeleteThe picture of the sunrise is stunning. So, for each of the 9 days you averaged 14.33 miles. Does that mean you could possibly reach Santiago de Compostela in 40 days? That would be delicious if it happens.
ReplyDeleteWhen you are departing, tell the Korean girls “An young he ka say yo” (go in peace)
ReplyDeleteYour progress is awesome compaired to the first day. The Meseta is indeed flat and your mind will wander as your feet go on autopilot. Happy trails. You enjoying the journey?
ReplyDelete