Monday, May 14, 2018

A light day to "catch up". Distance walked 19.8km (12.3 / 7.6*) to go -690.8km

I set the alarm for 6:30 this morning, got up and "dressed" to a degree that allowed me access to the complimentary breakfast at 7 a.m.
Ham, cheese and a soft boiled (yuck) egg, and I'm ready to go.

After returning to the room I started packing and had a great deal of difficulty moving. Part of the difficulty was (still) sore muscles but mostly it was lethargy. I laid back down on the bed and woke up... at 8:45!
Still lethargic and now sweating, I managed to get my items together and hit the road just after 9.
I had spotted a "farmacia" just around the corner and had a couple of items to pick up, but when I arrived I found the store did not open until 9:30. Having already started late I chose not to delay my journey further. I walked all four sides of a large park before I again found the Camino markers and headed out of town into the burbs.
I walked only a short distance when I was stopped by a pilgrim and asked which way was "out of town?" I explained the markers to her and we began to walk together. She did not recognize me but I instantly recognized the hyper-tensive Sharon from the Madrid train station the previous Wednesday. We walked quickly, as was her style, and she talked even faster. At one point we walked passed a man on the sidewalk and he began yelling at us. We both turned around and saw him gesturing that we had missed the marker that had directed us to turn right and cross at the crosswalk. He stood there, swinging his arm back and forth until we realized he had seen us miss our turn and didn't want us to be lost. A little further down a similar thing occurred when, again, we talked our way right past our turn and a total stranger yelled to show us we needed to back track and cross the road. Yet a third time a young man, this time walking just ahead of us stopped, turned around and made sure we turned at the marking in the sidewalk. The Camino will provide!
Sharon is an interesting person. She is from the Seattle area and to watch her you would think she is an entire Starbucks franchise; hyperactive and very outgoing, demonstrative in demeanor. She is a 72 year old breast cancer survivor who also survived chemo, an abusive childhood and an abusive first marriage. She has hiked the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) twice, the Camino 6 times, and she carries a picture of herself as a young teen with her, so she can pull it out when needed to tell herself she is a strong woman and she can do anything!
We walked out of Pamplona and through a couple of small suburbs into Cizur Menor, where I finally found a "farmacia" that was open. I dismissed myself from Sharon's story and went in. They had only half of what I needed, but half is better than nothing! 
The trail today was very pretty, climbing gradually, which was a good thing because I was not feeling well. I stopped in Zariquiegui for lunch, a little early but desperately needed. I had a banana and a bottle of Gatorade to see if it would help. I also decided to try a piece of whatever they had on the counter, as I of course am prone to trying new foods. There were two different looking, but similar items that appeared to be a quiche. I mentally selected one over the other based on a small difference in appearance of the top layer. 
When I pointed to the one I wanted she said, in very broken English, "onion? Or do you want ham and cheese" as she gestured toward the one I had forgone.
"Ham and cheese, por favor" I quickly replied. Ah yes, the Camino will provide.
After eating my lunch I proceeded up the well contoured trail to Alto del Peron, a wonderful work of art that sits among a long row of wind mills, portraying early pilgrims, leaning into the wind to the west, toward Santiago de Compostela.
There was also a placard explaining that the movie "The Way" was filmed here in 2009. (This was where I had first heard of El Camino de Santiago and began talking to Scott and Bev about it).
From there a very steep descent brought me through one small town before bringing me to Muruzabal, where I decided, having completed the 10 mile daily average I had originally hoped for, I would stop for the night at a beautiful albergue, the El Jardin de Muruzabal, which is more like a B&B, run by Alicia and Carlos in their home (possibly not their only home, but they do live upstairs).
It cost 30 Euro but includes a cotton sheet, dinner and buffet breakfast. Because check out time is at 8 a.m. I need to go now.
Alicia - keep your left elbow bent.

8 comments:

  1. Hoping you are feeling better. Stay well hydrated. Also, while Sharon sounds lovely perhaps you may want another walking partner so you can on the trail! Thank heavens people were paying attention and spotting the error of your ways before you got lost.

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  2. So there is another Alicia in your life the one who owns the lodging for tonight’s stay. Hope you are able to purchase the rest of the items you need from the farmacia and add to the list a thermometer. I am glad you got off the trail earlier and hope you feel better tomorrow. I love you madly and my arm is bent the entire day. Sleep well my pilgrim.

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  3. You will get lost many more times having perfected your technic on the Id Centenial trail. Fortunately there are helpful folks surrounding you on the camino. Fun blog to read. Glad you are retaining your humor.

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  4. Who knew Spain was famous for their ham and swiss (jamón y suizo if you were wondering)?! Glad you arectrying new things.

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  5. Had to look up "Muruzabal," and determined that it's a place name from a dialect word whose translation into English is surprisingly close to the phonetics of the dialect word itself. Means "Me raise the ball"--as in, I flush the toilet. (The reference goes back to "Making light of being in the dark." ;-)

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  6. I just read an article about a guy walking the Camino carrying his cello. I think you need to one-up this schmuck by carrying your tuba on the Camino. =]

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  7. Hey Jerry:

    Is Alicia FINNEGAN in Boise? She should call us and we would take her to dinner.

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