A good day! Distance 25.9km (16.1 mi/ 17.4) to go - 664.9 km

I slept very poorly last night (hard bed and short blanket) so I was on the trail by 7:30. Funny thing happened:

I had talked to Alicia by video chat on my phone last night and forgot to turn the volume down on my phone. Everyone had said they were going to be ready for breakfast at 6 a.m. and hit the road. But about 5:10 a.m. Spain time, someone posted something on FB that tagged me and my phone pierced the dark silence by emitting a loud "ding".

Everyone in my cubical thought it was an alarm so they all got up and left! I stayed in bed for another 45 minutes and had the breakfast room all to myself!

When I was finally on my way the kilometers went by quickly. I think I'm finally getting over the dread of a higher number and realizing that it only sounds like a long distance. When a sign post says the city I'm headed to is 5.7 km ahead it sounds like a big deal, but it's "only" about 3.5 miles. It just takes some mental adjustment.

As I walked I noticed that, really for the first time in these four days, I felt good; not strong, but good. My calves still ached but the movement of other muscle groups came much easier. As I walked over undulating countryside my steps were less labored, my thoughts less outward, more inward. I found that I was again approaching each rise in the Camino with a different focus. I began to use the philosophy that had seen me successfully complete the Idaho Centennial Trail. I again saw the trail as a metaphor for life.

Some up, some down, much level or rolling ground passed beneath my feet. As the rise began I took a glimpse of the landscape ahead, set a goal. As the steps became more labored I shortened my stride but kept advancing at a familiar step-pace. With longer, tougher slogs the steps became nearly stationary, but still at the same rate. My head was down, concentrating on keeping my forward motion, my momentum. The brim of my hat kept me from peeking ahead. When I reached my selected goal I looked up long enough to pick a new goal. If I can keep my feet moving forward, regardless of how much effort is required, I could reach my goal.

Instead of staring at the entire hill that loomed above I took a piece of it. And when that piece moved under foot I could then convince myself to keep going until the next piece was completed. Instead of fretting over what needed to be done my attention focused on each goal I had completed. This is, no doubt, how the Frenchman from Great Britain keeps moving. He takes baby steps, leaning heavily on his poles, body bent noticeably. Each time I pass him I'm reminded of his lone English word that he uttered to me - Parkinson.

This change of focus carried over into smaller things also. Offering to take pictures for people, giving a pocket full of change to an old man sitting on an ancient bridge, hat in hand (literally). In the middle of one stretch hung a bell with a chord attached. A sign said simply, "play for better vibrations". I reached up and tugged the chord, emitting a loud clang that was heard by many to come. Each one took their turn clanging the bell as they went past, lightening their burden ever so slightly. And not 25 yards further ahead, sitting under a tree just off the Camino, sat a large frog with a big grin on his face.

Another 100 feet down was a table with fresh fruit. A sign said "help us build a rest stop", and on the table was a can with a slot in the top. I took a banana as I dropped 4 Euro in the can. My steps got lighter as the words, "The Camino will provide" rolled through my mind.

Funny that I had been thinking so much about my challenges when a part of the reason I'm hiking is in memory of Betty, who was always looking out for others, and for Alicia who has been solid in her support of me, at the expense of her own fears and longings. She says she wants me here, but every muscle in her forced smile says she misses me as much as I miss her. But she is willing to focus on supplying the emotional force that keeps the feet moving forward.

I had planned to hike 16 km today. The miles came easier, the visiting with fellow Peregrinos was enlightening, so I kept going, finishing at nearly 26 km. I'm checked into a pleasant little albergue on the edge of a pretty river in Estella. 

I hiked today with Bill from Australia and Karen from TexArkana, Texas. I saw Sharon again and took a break with Derrick from Roncevalles, who had entertained JJ and I with his Aussie spin on life. Ate dinner at the same restaurant as the Japanese contingent that seems to be traveling at the same rate as I am.

Look Ma, green stuff!

So the one important question in all of this is: was the attitude better because the hiking was easier or was the hiking easier because the attitude was better?

Keep that left elbow bent my dear Alicia, and thanks for helping me today!