Biduedo to Sarria. Distance 25.1 km (15.6 mi / 16.3) to go 116.9

First of all let me say that the distance to Santiago as displayed on the stone markers is, as stated yesterday, suspect. The guide book I have been toting around (John Brierly's "A Pilgrims Guide To The Camino de Santiago") is generally considered to be very good. By adding up the distances (in km) between the two termini today, I covered 25.1 km. By calculating the metric conversion of the GPS track of my trek, I come up with 26.3 km (some rounding may occur during transit). By subtracting the most recently seen distance displayed on a marker from the marker figure near my starting point I get 31 km.

Not a real good start (error of 24%).

Not that it has anything to do with anything...

Perhaps it was because I was walking in the clouds yesterday but from the start this morning everything seemed to be magical. The scenery was so incredible that I took a half dozen pictures in the first kilometer! It was amazing!

and the hits just kept on coming as I eventually descended into the mist that would hang in the air the rest of the day (but oh, what a wonderous morning).

As I entered one small village I was struck by two things at the same location:

The first was an 800 year old Sweet Chestnut tree

Immediately adjacent to the area where the tree had stood sentry over the village for ages was some very creative and wonderfully skillful stone work that not only formed the intersection of four roadways/driveways, but simultaneously provided a runoff track that cleared the entire area of rainfall!

Maybe you had to be there to appreciate it...

This led to my examining the ingenious craftsmanship of the structures in these small villages. The roofs were supported by logs over a slanted span between the walls. But the logs were then covered with what would now be called a shake roof, with thin flat stones being used for "shingles". It literally had to weigh a ton, being held up by logs that had been placed into service what, hundreds of years ago?

The walls were constructed of stone, either of all uniform thickness with a cement-like filling holding them together, or miscellaneous rocks piled on top of each other with all gaps pain-stakingly filled with small stones, wedged to form shims, filling gaps and solidifying the entire wall.

I stopped around noon to grab a bite to eat and, I thought, regroup. I had seen, looking back at the edge of a town I was leaving, a sign that said "Samos". Unfortunately Samos was a town on a much longer "alternate route" that I was not planning to go through. So I sat and studied the book, trying to figure out where I was and how far out of my comfort zone this new route was taking me. Finally, I asked the man next to me, in gestures and pointing at my map, where we were.

It turned out that we were not "lost", simply not as far down the road as I had suspected. The sign must have been indicating a side road that went to Samos.

Shortly after leaving the bar I saw a long lost friend, briefly.

And it was somewhere in this stretch of road that I spotted some wildlife, although not what I was expecting. It was a Galician jumping slug. 

These ugly little creatures are found only in the Galician district of Spain. They can grow to be 6" long or so and appear to be almost motionless. These little critters will sit for several minutes preparing to jump into the air, completely without warning. They have been known to jump as far as 18"! Apparently they even have a festival in the spring where they race these little things. Can you imagine walking down the trail and suddenly having one of these jump on you?

Neither can I, I made the whole thing up. But they do periodically fall out of trees onto your head. So always wear a hat!

I made it into Sarria about 2 p.m. It was a long hike, but it gets me back "on schedule" with the guide book. My lovely tour guide booked me into a brand new hotel (so new that Google had no idea where it was!) and, I was told, I am the first person ever to stay in room 13 (I think that's a good thing?)

Actually, I'm in room 12, but I am the first resident to see this exact view:

So, being a brand new hotel, I was anxious to see what kind of fashionable shower they had installed. Well, the shower was pretty standard fair, but the sink is unique:

That line across the sink is the drain! Never have to worry about dropping an earring down that sucker!

There are three main points on the Camino Frances. St. Jean Pied de Port (the starting point for the Napoleon Way), Santiago de Compostela (the finish line for all of the Caminos that make up the Camino de Santiago) and Sarria (where I am now). Because there are numerous routes leading to Santiago they issue you a passport. Each day, usually when you check in to an albergue or hotel, they have a unique stamp that is inked onto your passport, and dated. When you present your passport at the office in Santiago they issue you a Compostela. Although I can not find a literal translation, it is a certificate that you have completed the Camino de Santiago. However, you only receive this IF you have stamps on your passport showing at least two stops each day from Sarria to Santiago.

Tomorrow begins the closing five days of my Camino. I have walked approximately 415 miles, leaving about 70 miles ahead of me. Good lord willing and the creek don't rise, I should stroll into the plaza in Santiago on June 12th.

Wish me luck and, as always my dear Alicia, keep your elbow bent.